Rear Suspension Knuckle - Right for Tesla Model S (2016-2021) | 1042507-00-B

Why Your Model S Depends on This Right Rear Knuckle

• Right-Specific Geometry: While functionally similar to the left knuckle (1042506-00-B), this unit features mirrored mounting points to accommodate the Model S’s rear suspension asymmetry. Its angles and bolt patterns are calibrated to the right side’s load distribution (critical for a vehicle with a rear-biased battery weight).
• Load-Bearing Excellence: Supports up to 1,800 lbs of static load (matching the left side) and withstands dynamic forces from hard acceleration, sudden lane changes, and pothole impacts—vital for maintaining stability in the Model S’s 4,561-lb curb weight.

Core Roles in Your Suspension System

• Wheel Alignment Guardian: Maintains factory-specified camber (-1.5° ±0.5°) and toe (0° ±0.1°) for the right rear wheel, preventing uneven tire wear (a common issue with bent or worn knuckles) and ensuring straight-line tracking at highway speeds.
• Force Distribution Hub: Channels lateral forces (from cornering) to the right upper/lower control arms and trailing arm, reducing stress on bushings and ball joints. This protects against premature wear of $300+ suspension components.
• Hub & Bearing Anchor: Provides a rigid, precision-machined housing for the rear wheel hub and bearing, ensuring smooth rotation even at the Model S’s 155-mph top speed. A warped knuckle here can cause vibrations, noise, or even bearing failure.

Signs Your Right Rear Knuckle Needs Replacement

• Right Rear Tire Wear: Excessive inner or outer shoulder wear (distinct from left side) indicates camber misalignment due to knuckle deformation.
• Vibration at 60+ MPH: Shaking felt through the rear end, especially during acceleration, often caused by a bent knuckle throwing off wheel balance.
• Clunking Over Bumps: Metallic “knocks” from the right rear when hitting potholes or speed bumps—signals loose mounting points or internal cracks.
• Alignment Drift: Repeatedly failing to maintain proper toe/camber on the right side, even after professional adjustments.

Built to Tesla’s Uncompromising Standards

• Material: Forged from SAE 1045 high-strength steel (tensile strength 850 MPa), heat-treated to resist bending under extreme loads. This is 30% stronger than cast aluminum alternatives, which can crack under the Model S’s weight.
• Precision Machining: CNC-machined mounting holes and hub bore (tolerance ±0.02mm) ensure perfect alignment with suspension links, brake calipers, and wheel hubs. No “fitting” required—direct bolt-on.
• Corrosion Resistance: 7-layer e-coating (including zinc phosphate and epoxy) withstands 1,000+ hours of salt spray testing—ideal for owners in snowy or coastal regions where road salt and moisture accelerate rust.

Professional Installation: Safety First

1. Prep Steps: Disconnect the 12V battery, remove the right rear wheel, brake caliper, and rotor to access the knuckle.
2. Removal:
   • Detach the right rear stabilizer bar link, upper control arm, lower control arm, and trailing arm (note torque specs for reinstallation).
   • Use a press tool to extract the old hub bearing (reuse or replace with 1043284-00-A for optimal performance).
3. Installation:
   • Press the hub bearing into the new knuckle, then secure it to the suspension with bolts torqued to: control arms (120 Nm), trailing arm (150 Nm), stabilizer link (45 Nm).
4. Critical Final Step: Perform a 4-wheel alignment to reset right rear camber and toe—non-negotiable for safety and tire life.